Basel; one of the most famous cities in Switzerland.
Bordered by France and Germany, this diverse Swiss city is famous for many reasons. It is home to some of the world’s major pharmaceutical brands and is arguably the top destination for seeing impressive modern architecture in Switzerland.
Not only does Basel feature spectacular architecture, it’s also a hub for popular Swiss culture.
The city absolutely comes to life with its many art and history museums as well as cultural events.
One of my most distinct cultural happenings in the city is its highly anticipated yearly carnival; the Basler Fasnacht.
I had been to this popular carnival in Switzerland only once before as a child, so experiencing this cultural event again in my adulthood gave me a renewed appreciation for this exciting Swiss event.
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The Carnival of Basel
The Basler Fasnacht (Carnival of Basel) is the oldest Pentecostal festival held in the world. It takes place annually between February and March, or specifically, the Monday after Ash Wednesday. The festival opens at 4 am in a grand ceremony called Morgenstraich (meaning in English, Morning Prank) and continues for 3 days .
Basler Fasnacht creates comical yet ironic social commentary on politics, both international and local. Bands of parade participants (with the most notable set known as Cliques) create large lanterns highlighting and mocking current events. There are many events that occur within the three days of the carnival such as a children’s carnival as well as a lantern exhibition. Needless to say it is a very big deal for the city of Basel.
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Let the Festivities Begin!
On Monday morning the entire city is in complete darkness.
Why is that?
Well, Basel’s utility company removes electricity from the entire city. As a result of this, the onlooking crowd is greeted only by the lights of massive lanterns referred to as Zugslaterne (large wheel-mounted parade lanterns that are pulled by 2-4 persons). The members of each Clique also wear individual lanterns on their heads, known as Kopflaterne (head lanterns).
Once the clock strikes exactly 4 am the leaders of each Clique signify the beginning of the festival with a cry of “Morgestraich, vorwärts marsch!” (“Morgestraich, forward march!”). All the musical instruments simultaneously begin to play their own melodies. The Cliques march around the entire city of Basel non-stop and are all present until the end of the festival.
It seemed as if every single resident of Basel was out and about to experience this very culturally significant festival; even tourists were present. I could certainly see the pride that the residents of Basel felt for their carnival. From the thought and craftsmanship put into making the costumes and lanterns, right down to their dedication to come out at 4 am to see the festival’s start. It was truly a sight to see.
Members of a Clique wearing head lanterns while playing their piccolos in Morgestraich
Typical Clique costumes
Irony at its Best!
Along the way, of course, I saw some very comical and bordering rude lanterns. Despite being drawn in a very childlike and comical manner, I questioned the appropriateness of some of these lanterns for children. Even though I could not understand the text written on the lanterns, some carried messages that were very clear. There were floats showing a comical drawing of Russia’s president, Vladimir Putin, America’s Uncle Sam, and even some speaking about gay rights.
Large lanterns called “Zugslaterne” carried by members of different cliques
Lanterns can be comical or politically charged
The Day Parade
The events of the afternoon were slightly different from the Morgenstraich commencement. Large trucks with different bands of persons dressed in comical costumes drove through the streets. These costumes had exaggeratedly large human features and are known as “Waggis”.
Waggis Throwing Confetti on a Parader
Waggis, Waggis!
The Waggis could be spotted all throughout the city being comical or giving treats to carnival paraders. Children were, of course, excited by this custom as, like most children do, they loved candy! Children from all around would shout “Waggis, Waggis” to prompt these costumed characters to throw candy their way. Not to be left out, the Waggis also ensured that the adults got their own form of carnival gifts, often in the form of small bottles of liquor or small metal flasks.
Some Waggis were even on smaller more comical forms of transportation (decorated bicycles etc.). The Waggis, in true nature of the Fasnacht theme of comedy, often chased carnival goers in order to throw large amounts of confetti at them (I can’t say I was never a victim of this). They would also give more healthy treats such as fruits and vegetables to carnival goers, as well as flowers (though only to the ladies).
Waggis throwing candy to children in the crowd
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Festival Eats
Wherever there’s a carnival there’s food right?
Of Course!
There was a non-stop availability of street eats, and even some that were only specific to Basel. There were traditional Swiss foods like “Chäschüechli” (cheese pie), Raclette (a melted cheese dish) and of course Bratwurst (sausages).
One particular food that was special to Basel was a soup called Basler Mehlsuppe (Basel flour soup). Despite its peculiarity in being made from flour, it was actually quite tasty.
Sweet treats typically found at the street parade
Street vendor serving a popular cheese pie “Chäschüechli” in Switzerland
Festival Traditions
It was clear to me that visiting bars and restaurants (which joining in on the festivities left their doors open for these 72 hours) was a common tradition. I could certainly see the relevance of this tradition also as:
- The festival is held in the winter season so therefore one of the best ways to keep warm is to get cozy inside a warm restaurant/bar drinking hot chocolate (lets also mention that alcohol is a great way to keep the body warm!)
- It creates a nice social bonding between the people who are all enjoying the festivities as well
These bars and restaurants were also all decorated with carnival decor, thus making it a great place to celebrate.
Fasnacht Themed Restaurant Decor
Guggemusig
Another interesting and fun custom I recognized was that special types of Cliques, specifically called Guggemusig, also entered bars to play live music for the patrons. The Guggemusig are special because rather than playing only drums or piccolos, they instead played brass instruments. It was certainly a fun and lively experience. One particular Guggemusig band took over the restaurant we had been sitting in and played music for almost 45 minutes! People sang, danced on stage and got on tables to belt out lyrics to the songs being played. It was a great time! The good vibes, laughter and smiles from all around was certainly infectious.
Guggemusig band making its entrance into a restaurant
Patrons of the restaurant enjoying the music from the Guggemusig
Welcome to Switzerland
Although I was only able to experience one day of the three day festivities, it was certainly a great way to begin my stay in Switzerland. It was like a welcome, if you would call it that. My trip to the Basler Fasnacht was also a perfect bridge from my childhood to my adult years.
Have you ever been to Basel Fasnacht? What special carnivals are held in your country? Let me know in the comments below!
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